The idea that Erin will produce unusually large waves while still staying offshore confirmed on the radio this morning by Dr Simon Boxall of Dept of Oceanography, Southampton.
In fact he suggested that the approach of the waves will be from the southwest, affecting Cornwall and Pembroke, and where they run at only a slight angle to the shore, will pile up large quantities of water which then escapes as riptides. He and the RNLI reckon these are the main danger to swimmers.
Originally Posted by: DEW